February 9, 2011

Can feminists like fashion?

My answer to this question is undeniably, yes. I am less sure, however, of how to justify my viewpoint. The pairing of fashion and feminism is problematic for a slew of reasons. On nearly every front the two seem to contradict each other. A few examples:
  • Fashion, as an aspect of capitalism, is intertwined with advertising, an industry that leans heavily on the mantra sex sells and the strategy of catering to the male gaze. As a feminist, it is difficult for me to reconcile participation in a system in which women and their bodies are often treated as objects for the consumption of men. Being an object implies being less than, and thus contradicts the feminist belief in equality for everyone.
On the other hand, though, feminism itself hasn't been represented as friendly to fashion either. In fact, media often portrays feminists as anti-fashion. The standard caricature of a feminist woman involves shapeless, oversized flannel, Birkenstock sandals, and baggy jeans. Accessories come in the form of a scowl, a burning bra, and perhaps a picket sign. (The similarities here to lesbian stereotypes cannot go without note-- a fact that only further reinforces the notion that fashion somehow has something to do with sexuality and men, as being anti-fashion somehow implies rejecting these concepts.) No matter which way you look at this conflict, fashion seems unable to be feminist, as much as feminists appear unable to participate in fashion (at least not without being hypocrites).

Despite this conflict, I stand by the belief that feminists can like fashion, and like it without guilt or reservations. There are a few instances I can conceive of in which fashion is feminist. Some thoughts:
  • Fashion at its roots, outside of advertising and market influences, is about self-expressiont. Self-expression and freedom of behavior are both decidedly feminist ideologies.
  • Fashion in itself can make a statement. Courtney Love's kinderwhore look definitely subverts traditional notions of womanhood by making use of clothing typically reserved for little girls. In this sense, how you dress can enforce activist beliefs, I suppose...
  • Making choices is feminist. Dressing yourself is one of the most overtly noticeable expressions of choice. This seems like reaching, but choice in any context is important, in my opinion.
Anyway, I know this post doesn't really make any sort of forceful argument to justify my opinion that feminists can like fashion. I also know that not everything needs to be divided into a dichotomy of feminist and anti-feminist. I do, however, believe that fashion, something so closely related society's construction of womanhood, does need to be sorted in this manner. I also realize that everything discussed in this post still fails to make note of a handful of other issues like sweatshop labor, heteronormativity, etc. (Etcetera being the hundreds of other issues intrinsic in the fashion industry.)

Ultimately, I suppose this issue is a matter of context. Sometimes, fashion is feminist. Lots of times it is not. As a whole, though, the concept of fashion (and self-expression it entails) seems feminist to me. Not everything is black and white, and recognizing the importance of a qualified opinion is as feminist as it gets in my opinion.

119 comments:

  1. Birkenstocks can absolutely never EVER be sexy. But a flannel shirt with jeans sure can be.

    ReplyDelete
  2. To me, fashion is a lot like art/the arts. To some people, its importance ranks up there with eating and breathing. To others, it's a frivolous waste of time. And there are are whole lot of shades in between. Everyone responds to their perception of its importance in a different way. Some people are indifferent towards it, some are angered by it, some use it to bring (their perception of) beauty into the world, some use it to challenge establishments, some people view it as a big game to be played, some see it as a complete waste of time, etc...

    Viewing fashion as art is the best way I've come up with to figure out my stance on it.

    ReplyDelete
  3. It makes me laugh when people tell me fashion is anti feminist. Just think about all the women with powerful jobs and huge roles in the industry.

    ReplyDelete
  4. I consider myself a feminist. I advocate womens rights and think men and women should be treated completley as equals. Not meaning that women should be treated as more delicate than men, which in a lot of cases, we are. In terms of fashion, I think there's a lot of social stigma on sex appeal and though it is largely displayed with women, I think it's unfair to criticize that a woman may show skin or be sexy. Women should be respected whether they're covered head to toe or wearing barely anything. It's a freedom of choice and there's rarely a stigma put on men showing skin, so why women? I think the main issue here is that misogynistic society subliminally degrades women and there's a lack of education for young girls in their most vulnerable stages. If our youth were more educated about women's rights and how women are viewed, more girls could make educated decisions on whether or not to dress sexy or take an interest in the fashion industry. In this case ignorance definitley isn't bliss and that's what should be taken more into account.

    I completely agree where you say fashion is about self expression, and think we shouldn't focus on the flaws of the fashion industry in deciding whether or not feminists can like fashion or not, but rather its core values: art, self expression and culture.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Feminism seems to embrace the notion of female beauty. In a wider array of facets and arenas than mainstream culture perhaps, but one's clothing is undoubtedly part of one's image. To be sure, fashion does involve objectification, colonialism, and materialism, but I don't think these things are intrinsically necessary to pursue a manner of dress with which one is pleased.

    On the other hand, infantilizing women, anti-feminist from my perspective, but I'm willing to be corrected.

    ReplyDelete
  6. Modelling has very little to do with the clothes itself. Fashion can be many things, and sure one of those things is slutty, but fashion isn't about the models (which I really do want to see get more diverse and if more people cared maybe they could be) or sex-appeal, it is about self-expression and
    Fashion is art, and therefor it can't be judged as a whole. I'd also like to point out that people who like fashion don't necessarily wear it. I love fashion very passionately but I mostly wear cheap sweaters and sweatshirts myself.
    And as you say, fashion is a choice, so those who decide that they want to wear skimpy outfits choose it for themselves, but that is very rarely true fashion.

    ReplyDelete
  7. I love your measured, well thought-out posts. That is all.

    ReplyDelete
  8. I think fashion can be feminist, but I also think that fashion reaches far beyond the (often problematic) fashion industry. I love clothes. I love to make them and to thrift them and to wear them, and I think that that can be subversive in its own way because I am--for the most part--opting not to be marketed to when I take clothes into my own hands. That's still fashion, but it's not necessarily the kind that relies on a homogeneous beauty standard. DIY spaces are one of the few spaces on line which are dominated primarily by women, and even mainstream fashion blogging allows for women to carve out their own space in a way that might be otherwise difficult--the Man Repeller springs to mind.

    ReplyDelete
  9. When using one's clothing to empower and express oneself rather than become a sheep-like doll or sex object for someone else's consumption, fashion is epitome of feminism.

    ReplyDelete
  10. I'm starting to think an argument could be formed that it is actually impossible to be anti-fashion, at least in the conceptual West. Or perhaps impossible to be anti-fashion and feminist. If the word "fashion" is meant to encompass all forms of dressing, not just the world of high fashion and design, then simply by getting dressed in the morning one is participating. Whatever combination of clothing items you choose to put on or not (even going nude would be considered a fashion statement) will speak to those who see you about who you are. Fashion at its core, as you said, is about self expression or presentation of oneself to the world. It cannot be avoided. The only case I can think of that would be anti-fashion is the case of the uniform, whether it be school, work, or belief related. And in all of these cases, the uniform is demanded and described by an outside party, undermining the feminist commitment to free personal choice. If a uniform is entirely self-imposed, it becomes a statement. Being related to clothing, it becomes a fashion statement.

    This has been a short exploration of a new idea for me, but now I'm actually really excited about further fleshing out this thought. What do you think?

    Also, I would totally date the girl behind your polyvore collage.

    ReplyDelete
  11. I consider myself to be feminist, but I have a real problem with modern feminism. It seems we're so wrapped up in "what does a feminist look like?" that we demonize women who don't fit the mold. Example: stay-at-home-moms, women who enjoy house work, women who change their name after marriage. I'm so tired of trying to conform to the "idea" of feminism, and sad that this is the majority of debate I see going on: women deciding if other women are "truly" feminist. I think in the case of the fashion question, the answer isn't yes or no, fashion is something a feminist can love, but rather, yes or no, fashion is something a citizen of the globe can love because of the labor politics involved. Thanks for your post, it's something interesting and worth thinking about.

    ReplyDelete
  12. There was a pretty good article on this on feministing a week or two ago. Personally, I think the issue is less about making fashion feminist than reconciling feminism with fashion, if that distinction makes any sense.
    Dude, you need to stop by 415b and have a feminist chat with me!

    ReplyDelete
  13. My view of feminists liking fashion is similar to my view on feminists getting married (to men, for the purpose of this discussion).

    If we are going by the traditional rule book of marriage, getting married could not remotely be seen as feminist. If a woman is being treated as property, forced to stay at home, pressured to have children and being given away from the ownership of her father to the ownership of her husband, it cannot be a feminist act. However, the simple matter of choice can instantly make marriage just as feminist as anything else. My feathers get a little ruffled whenever I read discussions in feminist spaces online about how a marriage can't really be feminist. I read an old thread somewhere about how anti-feminist it is to change your name, to which I say, don't tell me my choices aren't feminist! It's about choices and the freedom to make those choices. I want to wear a band on my ring finger and I want to change my last name. These things don't make me less feminist because my partner and I are equals and the wedding is about us as a couple, not about my life being handed over to him.

    That's all a very long-winded way of saying that you don't have to reconcile your love of fashion as a feminist. I am often tempted to try to justify some of my interests that seem less than feminist but we have to remember, "feminist" isn't some all-encompassing label that instantly defines everything about you. You're a complex human being. I think it's great to look at yourself and try to examine certain things but also give yourself some leeway.

    ReplyDelete
  14. Great post. I've often struggled with this - I'm a feminist, yet I wear high heels because I like the way they make my legs look and I wear make-up (most of the time) because I don't like the way I look without it (mostly because of bad skin). But does that make me a "bad" feminist? You're right, it all boils down to choice and self-expression. Like, I choose not to wear thongs. And I choose to wear my glasses most of the time because my contacts irritate my eyes.

    I think as long as you participate in fashion because you enjoy it, and it reflects who you are, that's feminist. Even if you are f-ing up your feet in high heels. But if you wear something only because it is expected, then that is problematic.

    ReplyDelete
  15. Feminism in relation to fashion is, like you say about self expression. But also, embracing your beauty is empowering, and so I consider that feminist as well. Feminism would have more of a point against advertisements than fashion. High heels are empowering, high heel ads may not be.

    What I'm getting at is that you can be a feminist, lesbian, or whatever and still like fashion. It's the depiction of fashion in relation to stereotypes in the media that we should stand against.

    ReplyDelete
  16. You seem to forget Feminism is, too, an aspect of capitalism. Like it or not, Feminist ideals were created and promoted by men who needed women to become consumers. That way, they make a lot of money, because a two-income household makes more money and thus buys more things.

    The sad thing about Fashion is that women have been taught that certain articles or styles are "empowering". Which is another way to get them to buy more stuff. So you get a lot of young women going into stores with a mantra that goes something like "I am a feminist! I am an independent woman! I don't need a man! I can buy whatever I want!" when in reality she is manipulated by the media to want certain things. Certain things that usually waste her money and drown her in debt.

    Therein lies the problem. Manipulation. Slavery. Which is why I've personally decided to forget about Feminism and become a true Humanist.

    ReplyDelete
  17. Carolina, I think that the term Feminism is more complex than you seem to be giving it credit. Eco-feminism seems somewhat antithetical to the consumer mindset and, for lack of the knowledge of a better term, multi-national feminism deals with the plight of the women pressed into labor to make our fancy toys, which hardly seems to be pro-big corporations. It seems any ideology can be turned to capitalist ends, as often free trade agreements are promoted as humanitarian, opening up markets will elevate standards of living and what not, but in the end just open up new nations for capitalist exploitation. Here humanitarian aims seem to be subverted for capitalist ends.

    Not that I have anything against humanism, I just feel it is erroneous to label all feminism as a capitalist cats-paw.

    ReplyDelete
  18. You should check out the fashion blog manrepeller.com. It kind of mocks the fashion industry, in the way that although some haute couture pieces are, well, men-repelling, women still wear them.

    I agree with you on the whole thing; fashion for me has always been about making choices (meaning that I've always dressed differently), as is feminism.

    ReplyDelete
  19. I think fashion can be taken two ways: one, as an art and two, as a business. While a lot of business practices in the world of fashion are not exactly conducive to feminist values, I agree that the core of fashion (as far choosing what to wear, what not to wear, how to wear it, etc.) is about choice. It's not at all a stretch. However, just because fashion is a "business", that does not mean that we should let their indiscretions slide. Fashion one of the most personal industries and, therefore, we should hold the industry to a higher standard.

    ReplyDelete
  20. Maybe fashion in itself is not anti-feminist, only the way that the fashion industry operates. They have to sell their products,and there are very few surefire ways to do that. One of the best is to use beautiful and ultra-thin models to promote the idea that a particular product will make a woman prettier. Women want to feel attractive; to feel sexy, and any product that makes them feel that way will sell. If an article of clothing, perfume, or even a brand of shoes is marketed to make women sexier, they will buy it. The problem lies not in the industry, but in the consumer. If we refuse to buy products from companies that market them with sexist means, they will have to change their ways. As it is, sex sells, and sexism sells even better.

    ReplyDelete
  21. I hate hate HATE the implication that I have to feel guilty for liking/wanting traditionally female things-- babies, dresses, heels, lipstick, cooking-- because these are trappings made by men which I am supposed to resent. Well, maybe I want the freedom to make my own half-role. I am grateful for my foremothers paving the way for me to wear jeans and have a career and all those other wonderful options which are now open to me, but I don't want to seem like a traitor to my sex if I choose not to utilize them.

    It's the postfeminist world in many ways, and we're still trying to get comfortable in it.

    ReplyDelete
  22. I am a feminist, born and raised by an ex-hippie mother. And here is my fashion blog. Suck it up, stereotypes.

    www.thenewblackfashionista.blogspot.com

    ReplyDelete
  23. You're right, the morality and ethics behind how clothes are produced is a whole other issue, so I think I'll just stick to the wearing and image of fashion.

    I think Maggie hit the nail on the head. In terms of personal fashion if you choose your clothes based on the fact that they make *you* feel good/comfortable/attractive/whatever you want, even if they're stereo-typically female, then you're fine. Personally I don't find stick thin fashion models attractive, and I generally don't like the clothes made for their shape, or lack of. I prefer more traditional hourglass figures, and wear clothes that accentuate that shape, because it makes *me* feel good. I buy frilly underwear because *I* like it, my boyfriend couldn't care less =)

    As for the fashion industry catering to the "male gaze", maybe some of the more provocative "slutty" clothes do, but I find in high fashion it's the women who care the most, either based the assumption that being like models will make them attractive (either to themselves or other men/women), or just plain old fashioned competition with other women. We're also lucky to live in a world with lots of choices and lots of smaller independent fashion companies and stores that cater to various styles. If you don't like what's in the mainstream, and you're passionate about fashion, you can find an alternative you'll enjoy.

    I've met men who like very thin model-like women, but I've also met many who don't. Women should never have to feel or bow to the pressure to change themselves to please a man, but unfortunately they do. If someone decides they don't want me anymore because I've put on a pound or two then they're not worth being with.

    Be comfortable with yourself first, and if those around you don't like it then find people who are comfortable with you and who you're comfortable with. They're out there and worth finding. That applies to fashion and also life in general.

    ReplyDelete
  24. THANK YOU JAMIE.

    feminism and fashion aren't mutually exclusive - i argue that they are two sides of the same coin. the mainstream fashion world has hijacked what fashion truly is and commercialized it for female consumption under the (hidden) auspices of looking attractive for men. it's taught women to adhere to impossible beauty standards, to buy expensive things simply to show off status, and love something and hate it in another 3 months. real fashion is NOT about that at all.

    ReplyDelete
  25. check out Tavi's blog if you haven't already. she's awesome and into fashion and a feminist.
    http://www.thestylerookie.com/

    ReplyDelete
  26. ^Not only is Tavi into fashion and a feminist, the focus of her blog is feminism and gender in pop culture, fashion, and media - definitely worth checking out!

    ReplyDelete
  27. I don't think fashion in itself is an aspect of capitalism. Fashion as a whole in its current state is affected by capitalism, but fashion in itself is no more an aspect of it than cinema, or gardening. Capitalism isn't inherent to fashion, fashion isn't inherent to capitalism and most of fashion's problems aren't inherent to it and didn't appear there by spontaneous generation: these came from already existing problems our society had, and even though it perpetuate and nourish these it can be changed. (well, in fact, it's weird, I just wrote an article about that on my blog, and came here by Bella's blog, and yeah.)
    (now if my syntax and what I mean doesn't make sense which I think may be the case, may I say I'm french and didn't had any sleep.)

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  68. تركيب غرف نوم بالمدينة المنورة


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    ReplyDelete
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